This care sheet has been written as a basic guide to start with Giant Land Snails, and should be used in conjunction with the species specific information available on this site.The majority of Giant Snail species require a large shallow enclosure with a semi ventilated lid. The enclosure needs to provide enough depth of substrate to allow the snail to burrow itself entirely, whilst providing enough space above the surface layer to travel around unimpeded. Room for climbing is not necessary, but additional space above the substrate layer to provide décor, or plants can make an enclosure more interesting and encourage reproductive behaviour.
Plastic or glass are the two most common materials for suitable container, although wooden vivaria exist be sure to check that any wooden enclosure will not suffer through the moist substrate and environment it must contain. Most wooden vivaria are made from laminated chipboard which will soak up moisture and soon crumble.
Glass and plastic both have their pros and cons. Glass remains clear when cleaned heavily and is generally more attractive but can also be heavy to move, easily cracked and is conductive of cold and heat during seasonal changes. Plastic scratches easily when cleaned but is lightweight and an insulator against temperature fluctuations.
Once you have chosen your enclosure you need to think about substrate. As I have already mentioned, snails require a depth of substrate sufficent to burrow themselves entirely. The majority of species will survive with less than this, but they will not thrive as those who have access to a deep substrate layer.
The substrate choice itself would be better informed by reading the Substrate Guide. Also some species favour a certain substrate type which can be found in the Species Specific Information. As a general rule though a 50/50 mix of isopod card and coir compost is recommended, with sphagnum moss added for species which prefer a more humid environment.
Finally the enclosure should be secured against fruit flies where possible, although harmless in small numbers fruit flies will quickly foul any fresh foodstuffs left in the enclosure and will act as a carrier for mites. The importance of control of this pest should not be underestimated. A very fine mesh or fabric should be secured over the container of the enclosure where possible.

A temperature of approximately 20c-26c is a suitable daytime range for most Giant Land Snail species, this can comfortably drop as low as 16c at night as long as the daytime range is maintained. This can be achieved through heat mats or lamps, be sure that the snails cannot rest against the heat source directly as they will readily cook themselves over a period of time showing no acknowledgement of the high temperature they are exposed to. Ideally you want to try and raise the air temperature in the enclosure as well as maintain a warm substrate layer. A chilled substrate may induce sluggish behaviour even when the air temperature is adequately warm.
Lighting is not essential for most Giant Snail Species, but does aid in inducing reproductive behaviour and access to UVB may help shell growth. Certainly snails exposed to a regular photo-period do seem to produce healthier shell growth than those maintained in a darker space.
Humidity requirements vary greatly across species, so do check the Species Specific Information. However, as a general rule all species require a certain degree of humidity, this can be provided through a light misting daily, a moisture retentive substrate or an open water source for bathing. Ideally the substrate should be moist but not wet, a wet substrate will result in stagnancy, pooling of water at the bottom of the enclosure and the suffocation of any ova laid there.

Most species will take a mixture of fresh vegetables. A good base for this is a mixture of sweet potato and green lettuce (such as Romaine) plus whatever seasonal vegetables are available – I'd recommend sweetcorn for its high starch content and courgette/marrow during summer months. Cucumber is readily taken and lasts longer than some softer lettuces in the heat.
Always ensure that a source of calcium is made available, cuttlebone or limestone rock are ideal, limestone flour or powder can be provided also. The temptation is to dust foodstuffs, but this is not necessary in day to day feeding. A good mixed diet and a source of calcium which can be visited by the snail when it feels the need to do so is ideal. Seed mixes are available and make a good weekly supplement, the majority contain oily seeds which spoil quickly in the wet so uneaten mix should be removed within 24 hours of offering.

Land snails can make a fascinating hobby, but they can also be a lot of hard work. Their humidity requirements, size, and diet of fresh foodstuffs mean than maintenance must be a strict routine. Enclosures must be kept clean, spot cleaned where possible during the week and cleaned fully weekly to avoid pests, fruit flies and maintain the visibility through the sides of the enclosure.
There are a few things you can do to make this job easier, and maintain an enclosure for longer between cleans.
The use of vivarium custodians should not be overlooked, a healthy culture of springtails and woodlice will quickly breakdown and clean up uneaten vegetable matter – digested or not – and prevent a build up of mould in the humid atmosphere. In turn this will help control populations of unwanted visitors, fruit flies and mites. These custodians will thrive in the same conditions as most Giant Species of Snail they make the ideal addition to any enclosure.
The use of live plants can also make the difference between a weekly chore of completely stripping an enclosure and spot cleaning on a regular basis. Live plants help to maintain humidity, releasing water drawn through thier roots in the bottom of the enclosure and releasing it through the leaves. They will help to remove unwanted richness from the soil and provide shelter and locations for egg laying.